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  1. Today
  2. Looks really good! Keep us updated after you fire it up!
  3. Doing a front mount engine plate is the easy way but I don't like the fact that all the engine weight is ahead of the front spindle. I used this on my Cobra II and found it even hurt weight transfer!
  4. Yesterday
  5. I run front plate/mid plate on my mustang, pure street duty. I did it to free up room for my turbo headers to make their way up front. Regular rubber trans mount. I have zero complaints about it, it is significantly smoother, less shaky than pre-turbo build with regular motor mounts and a similarly mild cam (comp 268h I think...). My guess is with the standard rubber mounts, the engine only has it's own mass to shake around, and it's shake would occasionally get into resonance with the chassis, making the whole car shake every few seconds. Since it now HAS to shake the entire car to shake at all.. it doesn't really budge. I'll likely go motor plates on my current project car as well. Just my experience! It is a mild cam motor, so if you have a hot motor, maybe don't do this. Crappy video I pulled from a message, but here it is idling and revving.
  6. There are many vehicles out there running standard universal joint setups with both lateral and vertical offset in the driving and driven shafts. You just have to adhere to the rules, input and output shafts parallel and yokes on drive shaft phased properly. Parallel shafts insures equal angles on driving and driven yokes. With parallel shafts and proper phasing the drive will produce constant velocities input to output. With shafts parallel and inline laterally (offset vertically only) there is a vertical plane thru the centerlines. If you impose a lateral off set, the plane through the centerlines becomes rotated. Shaft angles then should be measured in the rotated plane. When dilligas puts his shafts inline laterally he can measure angles in the vertical plane. So it makes things a bit more straight forward, easier, but the drive is not adversely affected by lateral offset.
  7. Driveline alignment when viewed from above........ When viewed from above I always try to align the crankshaft/tailshaft centerline directly inline with the pinion centerline regardless if it's a street/highway combo or a drag race combo. So if the pinion C/L is offset lets say a 1/2" to the passenger side, then I also offset the engine crank C/L a 1/2" to the passenger side as well. Or if the pinion C/L is dead-nuts in the of the car then I place the crank/trans C/L dead-center as well. Motor plate...... I'm not a fan of using a front aluminum motor plate + steel (or aluminum) mid plate + travel limiter(s) rigid mounting system on any purpose built street driven vehicle that actually truly sees street/highway use. It might be a different story if you can find a way to rubber mount the rigid motor plate + mid plate + limiters to the chassis to reduce vibration. But doing that does kinda defeat the main purpose of the "plate" mounting system in the first place (rigidly tying the engine block to the chassis). IMO true street cars should always have the engine mounted with some form of a rubber/urethane mounting system. And regardless if it's a drag-only car with motor/mid plates, or a street driven car with rubber/urethane mounts, if it has an automatic trans with a thin OEM factory case then the trans tailshaft mount needs to be either rubber or urethane. Never use a solid tailshaft mount (regardless of engine mounting) with a factory thin OEM case auto trans. On a side note I'm also not a fan of using just the front motor plate (by it's self) on a drag car. IMO if a drag car "needs" a front motor plate, then it also "needs" a mid plate as well. Emergency brakes......... The E-brake disk behind the pinion yoke deal is old school ancient tech. If it has a ford 8", 9", or 8.8 rear housing with a 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern you might think about swapping in a late model Mustang (IIRC either Fox Body or SN95 platforms) rear disk brake setup with built-in E-brakes.
  8. Picture of front axle at ride height.
  9. Your a beleiver in plenum volume are you??the long runner on chi over inch longer
  10. Looked at some motor plate mounts but don't know much about them. Figured they would get in the way of accessories and their mounting. This might sound dumb but; I worry about the strength of aluminum bell housings with just a front mount and transmission tail housing mount. Do they have a mount in the middle also? About the driveline alignment: With the equal distances from frame to the brake backing plates on the axle, I found out the center of yoke is 3/4" off center to the passenger side. 12 1/4" on pass side and 13" on drivers side. Will that cause a vibration. Could I shift the engine 1/4" to the left to get more clearence for pass side header? That would make 1" of total variation from center line. Have been told to get engine mounting angle by measuring that angle from starter mount. Drive shaft length should be 47" or 48". I'll take a picture of the axles and see if I can get them to post. Thanks, Keith
  11. Heres the difference boys. Even strip with spacer shorter.
  12. Last week
  13. Could you go with a front motor plate instead of traditional mounts? This would free up space for headers.
  14. I had the 400 3v manifold on my chi 4v heads. It made more average hp than strip. Gave up about 11 peak though. If I remember correctly.
  15. Ill get measurements today or tomorrow. The chi does sit higher but the strip is deceiving cause its tucked in valley a bit.
  16. Wow! Didn't know there so many kinds or types of tubing. Was thinking I'd have to find someone with a lathe and have them bore or drill out 1 3/8 shafting. Will that product be as strong? The poly bushings are just some thing I have in my bolt bin. Looked at a panhard bar but car sits low and using the panhard would only use half the arc of the bar's travel. It's a full fendered car and tire/fender space leaves little room for axle movement to the side. And the bar would stick down and be visible. Didn't want that to show. This watts system has a "plate" a with arms that attatches to the frames cross member. Then a couple arms that goes from the "plate" and attatch to the web of the axle. All on the back side of axle. Not visible from the outside. The rear axle is a three bar, air bagged. Have been talking to tsmmfg to see if their pinion housing mounted watts linkage would work with the third bar. Looks like it will. They have an option of mounting a brake disc on back side of pinion yoke and using it as a emergency brake. Think I'm kinda sold on this system. Has anyone had experience with this product? Thanks, Keith
  17. OK, more like fill in the blanks it could very well be a winning mismatch
  18. What is the height difference between a CHI3V intake and a Holley Strip Dommy intake? The 3V's carb pad & plenum layout kinda looks like they "built-in" a 2" open carb spacer.
  19. If you could find 1 3/8" OD mild steel tubing with a .125" wall it would be dead-nuts on. But there really isn't hardly any true "1/8" wall steel tubing anymore. DOM seamless mild steel tubing (but not truly "seamless") would have tighter manufacturing tolerances, but would usually have a .120" wall vs a .125" wall. Cold rolled welded seam m/s tubing (CREW) usually has a little looser tolerance than DOM, (.120" wall CREW can often sonic test down in the .117" to .119" wall range). And hot rolled welded seam m/s tubing (HREW) often has an even looser tolerance wall thickness (I have seen HREW .120" wall tubing sonic test down in the .113" to .115" range). I guess if you could find some 1 3/8" OD tube with a .134" wall (in DOM, CREW, or HREW) you could then cut the inside on a lathe to the desired .125" wall thickness. If the poly bushings have enough meat (OD to inner sleeve) what about trimming the OD of the poly bushing down in a lathe to fit some other OD tubing? What about using poly bushings meant for leafsprings? There might be some usable bushing OD's to work with. Never heard of using a Watts linkage on the front of a car before (vs a long panhard bar). Heh, but then I am more of a a "drag car" guy than a "street rod" guy. If this is mostly a street/highway driven car (and depending on what rear suspension type is used) I would go with a more street friendly "equal-but-opposing" driveline angle profile when mocking up what angle to hang the engine/trans crank centerline in the car. The "drag race only" driveline profile (point the crankshaft centerline directly at the pinion centerline & point the pinion centerline directly at the crank centerline during mock-up) usually doesn't have enough working U-joint operating angle happening at the front/rear U-joints for street/highway use IMO.
  20. Going to design and build a set of motor mounts to put a Cleveland in my 27 Hudson street rod. Any thoughts or suggestion on what, and what not, to do? Biscuit type might be easyiest. The boxed frame is 25.25" wide and the Sanderson shorty headers are close to frame on passengers side. So not much room for engine to move around. Energy Suspension has some poly/metal mounts that are made to fit the Mustang but cost $160.00 Have a bunch of poly bushings that were designed to be used on control arms. Was thinking of using them. Ever try to find a steel tube with 1 1/8 inside diameter? Suppose I'll have to have them made. Thoughts.... Don't understand header manufacturers: They upgrade you to thicker flanges, but just send regular length bolts. I asked them about that and they said all you have to do is ask and they will send the 1 1/4" ones. So I did and they sent the short ones anyway. The regular 1" ones only go into the head a couple threads worth. The headers were ceramic coated black so they send silver colored bolts. It that "the" look or something? Used a tsmmfg brand of modified watts linkage to control sidways movement of the bagged straight front axle. They posted a picture of it in their "readers rides" section. Said they never seen one used like that before but they liked it! Thanks, Keith
  21. Never shaved anything. I added that piece to bottom of runner so it would cover port. Then cut bottom angle to fit parkers valley cover. The top of port fits almost dead on but bottom is close to 1/2 inch higher than head floor. My head guy says that might end up gains in the reversion department. Hard to say till we try.
  22. how much did you have to shave off sides / bottom?
  23. did you ever get a chance to verify that all 16 lifters & pushrods were rotating? on 2nd thought i suppose even a mild hyd-roller can work just fine. your close enough to Tim get that block down there for a good BHJob https://www.pinterest.com/tmeyerinc/lifter-true-cleveland-block/
  24. Well I'm just skeptical of a flat tappet cam today... I'm willing to have the block prepped with lifter bushings, ARP and such by the machinist and I just want a solid bottom end and a roller cam may just fit the build. I'm just trying to have a plan of sort's.
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