BlizzND

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BlizzND last won the day on March 11

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About BlizzND

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core_pfieldgroups_99

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  1. Cleveland Air Flow testing Article Ford Muscle Magazine http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2007/10/351CHeads/index.php
  2. so other than to save weight, why not add block material to support that bottom of those long sleeves as well? just wondering if it would add strength or just weight?
  3. call Tim Meyer, he sold me a set a few weeks back that are really really nice! yes 351C plug sets at least all that I have used have been plenty long for 400's as well.
  4. I just read the other day Bill Coon is still after all these years, still working on blocks, perhaps he still furnace brazes as well..
  5. I'll have to look on my office server, not sure if I have those filled port pics..
  6. one could sleeve a 400 block to take 4.20 sleeves as well, spayed main cap and the 4.5" stroke crank.. Big arse Boat Anchor! with off the shelf Yates 4.187 race pistons and a pair of used Yates race heads.. hmm.. really if you need 450 plus Cubes.. a Factory 460 with a cheap Scat crank will get you over 500" pretty easily.
  7. whats the part number I might know a guy.
  8. front is down as far as we can, only 5/8" exposed strut showing, chasis is 3" of the track we wil instal the 85# rear springs and go from there best currant 60' is 1.51 lots of 1.53s and higher 50's tire presure is key new gauge wil make the diference
  9. made 9 passes on Saturday, on the 7th we found out our tire pressure gauge was reading 6 pounds, when the neighbors 300 dollar gauge read 13.1 hmm that sucked. so we dropped to a real 6.5# set the chip to launch at 4800, set the IC out to 56" did a much lighter burnout, set the extension to 2 clicks tight off center, and compression full loose and the car launched the best it did all day, still spun some, still bunny hopped a few times. I bought a new tire pressure gauge today and ordered a set of 85# springs for the rear. I'm going to get this to lunch yet!
  10. You say you have two inches showing on the struts, how much do you have until they top out. 3.5 total.. looking at your cad drawing it looks like you have your front 4 link bracket welded in too low not allowing you to move your instant center further out. we welded it in where it was designed to go, unfortunate for us, the chassis is, a Prostock or Top Sportsman chassis, (without the funny car cage) designed for far more HP than we have. hence the issues.. I sent the same info to Rickie Jones this morning, he recommended, lowering the lower bar one hole and raising the rear ride height, 1/2" we will do that, plotting it out that should put our IC out to 56 and change inches, at 4.5" off the track. we will also toy with lowering the trans brake chip to 3800-4000 to see if the converter can work better before it locks up at 5800. thoughts appreciated..
  11. What was the slick air pressure? 8 pounds Where was the rear shock & front strut extension & compression valving set at (counting either from full tight or full loose)? front is full loose (single adjust struts) rear is full extension 2 clicks tight on rebound What was the rear shock & front strut spring rates? front is 225 rear 110 Did the rear shocks/front struts have any shock-shaft showing at ride height? front have 2" showing (we had to build spacers to make that happen and hold ride ht) rear are 1&" shocks 12" springs 4" showing Or was the shock snubbers touching the shock body? no What was the 4-link I/C length & height at ride height? 48.92 6.80 And what was the bottom bar angle at ride height? 2 degrees What kinda HP/TQ does the combo currently have to work with? 430 HP TQ ?? drag calculator based on weight and ET I attached my cad drawing of the chassis as well as our set up sheet from last week, we really have to be missing a piece of this puzzle. Maybe we were hitting the converter too hard, had a 5500 chip in the brake, the converter locks up at 5800??? I really appreciate the time! ~todd Maverick June 24 2017.pdf Maverick chassis setup June 25 2017.pdf
  12. thanks' I can draw theme up from looking at it, It will have to be similar but different for the alternator.
  13. my bronco needs an alternator bracket made like that! hmm, I just happen to have a friend with a waterjet.
  14. The issue with the Big RV's is the RV doesn't weight that much, remember it was designed to go in the back of a 3/4 to 1 ton pickup. The Semi tractor even singled would only have that 2-3000 pounds total on that rear hitch point. the further they move it back, the more leverage it has to put weight on the drivers. Helpful when pulling out of soft campgrounds or on slippery highways. Do the same with a pickup and the front tires would be light. The HDT idea for towing RV's is really a no brainer for full time RV's the truck suspension is way over built for the load, the tourqe of the big diesel pulls the trailer all day long in high gear, with no stress on any of the engine components, no adding turbos or chips or modded exhaust, pyrometers ect. like a light duty truck. More importantly, when it comes to safety, you cannot compare the 2. the Truck will pull in the wind, hold the road in the strongest of crosswinds, and in the case of the sudden emergency stop. the tractor will stop, and stop now, with engine braking and huge air brakes, compared to the braking of the 1 ton truck. The maintenance on the HDT is nearly nil compared to the 1 ton. tires, oil changes, brakes transmissions. Buy a HDT with 300K on it for 25,000 with a big Cummins Cat or Volvlo engine ad auto shift. or a new 1 ton for 70k in 3 years 300k later, the big truck only has 600k on it, and the 300K (if it lasted that long) 1 ton is next to wore out worthless. They also turn sharper than a dually pickup with the HTD 55degree wheel cut. there, more than you wanted to know about one of my favorite topics outside 351C fords, we now return to the poor OP's question.