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tinman last won the day on July 26

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  1. standing by waiting for response, i appreciate your input. being a week-end some members are off doin their thing while some have the time to check in & vice/versa i hadn't considered getting into boost yet but what would be the harm in using 1.3 LOL ? I'm sure i can screw up the formula so i'll be sticking to the calculator when i feel froggy, to me the proof in the pudding would be different real & hypothetical engine combos that produce the same DCR & cylinder psi as a way to determine that input variables are factored in and the DCR / psi results are repeatable if that makes sense
  2. there's gotta be a relationship between Dynamic CR & cranking cylinder pressure ... from this distance it would seem that the known variables except atmospheric pressure / altitude are already factored in, could it be just a matter of tossing inputs into the Wallace calculator & putting together a spreadsheet? we used to have some really ejumecated fellas following the forum, you guys still here?
  3. is what you're looking for in here Dan? i put in George P new lobes updated & web search pulled up this http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/5650045562/m/3971035156 hopefully G will be along soon
  4. compression ratio is still in the mist, Intake Valve Close point determines the 'effective swept distance' or the the dynamic compression ratio being that we don't know the intake valve close point we can't figure DCR and I'm not sure there's a reverse calculator to come up with the static CR either, you'd need to just plug away at punching in CR's until you find a match to your DCR & cranking pressure. the Wallace DCR calculator gives these results but you're missing the IVC but 180 psi is pretty stout w/o being overboard, it should run on pump premium with a reasonable tune (ignition timing) with a cam that smooth out around 4k (probably a fairly late closing intake valve) and 180 psi cranking says it does have some significant static CR, just know way to put a number on it. good news is that now you know you're dealing with a 180 cranking psi motor
  5. you should be able to find a number for him on the web, as i recall he was very secretive about his grind specs ... so much that the customer doesn't know what's up ... you can set the cam up in your rebuilt and reverse engineer a cam card using cam degreeing tools. find the lift at the lobe before you try running a pushrod & rocker arm on a valve to avoid mechanical interference. chances are that the cam has more lift than a stock head might allow. after you know the lift at the lobe you can get the heads set up to handle the cam, then with a set of 'checking springs' you can run the opening & closing points in degrees at the crank also possible that Mark has the specs tucked away and might even share them with you
  6. that's where the cam comes into play, 10:1 with a late closing intake valve can be a deal breaker that won't run on pump gas and 10:1 with a very late closing intake valve will be down on power this is called DCR or Dynamic Compression Ratio, time to dig out the cam info "Staying below 8.25 DCR is probably best for trouble free motoring." http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html ~ " ... the desirable DCR range for a street engine is 7.5 to 8.5-1, with 8.25 being about the practical limit " http://www.indianachevelles.com/index.php/membership/torquetalk-newsletter/43-torquetalk/torquetalkarticles/149-article-dynamic-compression-ratio
  7. 10:1 is just a swag using those inputs but i just checked what flat top pistons would do and it's only 10.65:1 the measurements of your specific parts will need to be determined!
  8. www.craftperformanceengines.com is in Arkadelphia, they don't mention 351C on their page but in the past they've been very involved with Clevelands Tim Meyer also arranges shipping at good rates it might be dollar wise to have an professional builder do the matching & machining required to get your cam & possibly your heads working together happily. it should be cost effective to have your heads redone rather than buy new because you already have them, good alloy heads aren't cheap, and cheap alloy heads are not a bargain. with a stock stoke Cleveland the Aus heads won't send the CR screaming through the roof, add crank stroke and it gets dicey in the piston dept. using 58cc chambers, .025" deck clearance and 8cc piston volume i get right at 10:1, not knowing what you chambers measure. piston volume & deck clearance can be adjust somewhat to maintain reasonable static CR. you cam's intake valve closing point will help dictate where you need to be on SCR, do you remember if there's a target compression ratio with the cam info?
  9. duplicate post just post here to keep it together http://351c.net/board/index.php?/topic/4656-cleveland-or-clevor/
  10. just curious where did your block crack, and any idea why? what kind of mounts do have on it, front & rear plates? are the internals in the 351Cracker still OK ? i know for my $ everything else being = and if i think it might've been a fluke i'd be hosing out the stored shorty with D40 and get it back going ... but you haven't really given us much background on usage & build / power level. what car, trans, gear, slicks etc ? stepping over to a Windsor block means a complete build-out including intake manifold unless you specify a Cleveland mains & 9.2" deck block. std Windsor uses 3" mains & 9.5" deck height but the aftermarket can supply a 2.75" Cleveland diameter mains & 9.2" deck block. the complete build-out would included a Windsor oil pump, pan, timing cover & chain set, cam, water pump, possibly accessory drive brackets, if 9.5" deck build the headers will move upward & outward in the chassis possibly causing interference, intake manifold (not sure if spacers are thick enough going 9.2" > 9.5" ? ) that'd be a lot of $ when you have a block on hand 'already shipped' and the damn Dart blocks crack anyway so to the original ? you'd need to drill / tap / plug & machine flat the coolant holes in the cylinder head deck surfaces, then drill new holes in the intake manifold faces for the coolant to exit the heads and connect to the thermostat passage in the intake manifold or, use an auxiliary T-stat housing and drill coolant exits & install fittings into the front of the cylinder heads there's also another issue regarding the head gasket and the proximity of the Cleveland exhaust port vs the Windsor. the Cleveland head gasket cools the deck under the exhaust where the Windsor doesn't. I've never seen a build address this so maybe it doesn't matter IDK so give us a little more of the whole picture!
  11. the scale on the balancer goes past 12* for sure i forget how far though. the timing tape really comes in handy for checking total advance 6 3/8" rings a bell but measure yours to be sure https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/mr-gasket/part-type/timing-tape they got expensive too
  12. if the previous motor went out with a bang the pipes could be loaded with something that makes smoke check your plugs for one or more that never takes color. plugs taking coolant or water will be spotless clean
  13. rod cap flipped or debris?
  14. the pointer is just that, the marks are on the balancer. you'll need to wipe down or possibly sand the paint off to get to the metal to see the marks. what i like to do is stick on a timing tape after a fresh coat of paint. apply the tape before the paint is fully dry and it'll stay on for a good long time probably a good idea to verify that the balancer hasn't spun and the 0 is correct before doing all that
  15. you want the cast & date code near the starter, and there may also be an assembly date code hand stamped near the passenger side timing cover dowel no idea what those characters represent but i think i see the Cleveland Casting Plant logo