tinman

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tinman last won the day on May 1

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  1. did you ever get a chance to verify that all 16 lifters & pushrods were rotating? on 2nd thought i suppose even a mild hyd-roller can work just fine. your close enough to Tim get that block down there for a good BHJob https://www.pinterest.com/tmeyerinc/lifter-true-cleveland-block/
  2. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1960-Aston-Martin-DB2-4-MKIII-Vintage-Article-James-Bonds-Mind-Blower-351C-/222399185349?hash=item33c80641c5:g:4rAAAOSw9GhYlhBM it's an ebay auction for the 1975 article pulled from the magazine but it's a car I've not heard of, fairly unique Cleveland transplant ... i wonder where the car is now, still smokin?
  3. I'm one that does not care for the print-o-%&#@! gaskets. i installed the dry and found that the sealer bead that comes applied to them grabbed & tore during install. counter intuitive but i think the best way to install them is to lube the surfaces similar to doing an O-ring or silicone rubber 'chain gasket' so the sealing beads can slide during the TQ procedure rather than stick & tear the basic generic composition (paper) have always worked for me but watch the port dimensions, all brands and even part numbers within a brand are not the same. aim for the closest port dimension as your heads have without going smaller. kinda the opposite as the price is right. the Performer runner exits are smaller as designed by Edelbrock than the heads to improve velocity so the head ports are the size to go by I'm also off the turkey pan gasket. if not sealed completely fully around the perimeter they'll hold moisture & water from condensation & washing the engine, then the tray will rust through. I've found rusted through pinholes on the last 2 i pulled off. and 1 i know for sure it didn't take all that long for it to happen paper gaskets and silicone RTV only on the ends. the trick is here at 5:15
  4. you can probably get him on the line, http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/contact_us interesting the 351C-Aus chambers look a lot like these D3VE's on Scott's page http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/specials Delta Cam & Reincarnation Automotive are about 10 miles apart
  5. there might be quite a bit of power left on the table, just collecting 1/2 of it would be worth a cam grind. mild roller might not give you much tingle? the heads are set up for a mechanical flat tappet just need springs to match the cam, studs look a little on the short side Yes i'd get a solid number on the chamber volume to proceed choosing pistons, they do have an altered appearance your heads may be ready for flat top pistons rather than dish
  6. now i need one of those too? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/knn-85-0600/overview/ Steve would the stubber do anything for my Ultra or am i already blended?
  7. i sure don't see any distribution problems at all, i just wondered what your take is on the general dimensions compared to store bought stuff if you have any hands on fondle time but you've been asking about those too so maybe not. 50hp isn't that about what those junkyard friedburger guys came up with dual vs single? pretty much what I've always seen unless somebody's trying to tell me their single carb runs harder than a 2x set up and yeah i saw somewhere someone said (Bueller?) sheet metal intakes don't come close to cast alloy rams, i don't see why unless they got the recipe wrong looks like a real nice quality piece just don't TQ the carb studs & bend the crap out of the top like a Procomp LOL
  8. top pic in this post makes me wonder if plenum volume is on the large side, but the top pic in the post above the carb puts the plenum into perspective any idea how the plenum volume & runner length of your fab ram compare to 'good' proportions for successful Eddy / Weiand prostock units? is the plenum open end to end or is there any kind of a divider wall between the carbs?
  9. i found the page i wanted to find earlier up the thread http://www.bulkpart.com/2/category/bolts.html M474FA 3/8" x 24 ? IMO no the nut should not start locking on the first thread, that's some serious mistrust and leaves behind damage if you should need to R&R no idea whether these nuts from bulkpart are full ovate or just the last thread
  10. still a good point Dave had though too. an old bud bought a stored 351C, had it installed into his 73 Mach and shortly after attempted to drive 1/2 way across the country before a spring let loose. nothing fancy just a mild build ... and i just remembered i discovered a busted spring during reassembly of a motor that sat for not sure how long. out of the corner of my eye i didn't even realize what i was seeing but i knew to keep looking until i eound a broken spring. it cracked just from turning the motor through getting it set up, so i replaced them all with another set of just as mysterious unknown springs from i don't remember where and now it's been sitting for a couple or more years again insert facepalm here what about maybe like an outlaw / private track? here's a hoot, my old outlaw strip in the industrial park made a mention on YB Hahaha & LOL http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=439506
  11. sounds like a plan! if it's really going to be a 'toy' and not a pleasure cruiser or daily driver you need to match the combo or it'll always be none of the above like i said, been there done that nothing wrong with the block's origin, nothing wrong with whatever stroke is in it but you kinda need to know what you're working with can you drain or run out the tank before you give it the good stuff? how far away is the nearest track?
  12. they'll probably call the funny bus. i sent off an email when i saw this article apparently nobody's ever been contacted that I'm aware of, unless T. Buttermore got the call? http://www.competitionplus.com/drag-racing/news/13248-the-tijuana-taxi-under-construction
  13. a 600hp engine that won't burn the tires off at will tells me it's high strung, and a strike against it being a 4" stroke 400"+ motor. HP is a calculation of TQ & rpm, the motor doesn't make killer low end TQ so it must be good for turning rpm? it's lazy because it never sees it's target power band. been there done that 11.x:1 manual trans turning a 4.11 wasn't quite enough gear for a Crane F238 cam and that's the smallest on the list IIRC. don't waste any time $ or effort with w 3.73, and mixing fuel is a PITA / doesn't happen unless you live that close to a 24hr source for 100+ octane. 100+ because that's about the minimum entry fee for the motor to run right, you can't water down 100 with pump premium, you'll need 116 to water down, plan on running the 100 straight and like i said minimum you may still need to limit timing curious if you caught this inside a link i posted to Steve's other thread, "... the Fairmont's box-like body shrouded a 332-cu.in. Ford engine (as time progressed, the engine would displace 340 cubic inches). Its debut at the national level was slated for the NHRA's Summernationals in Englishtown, New Jersey ... " https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/mus/2010/07/Let-the-Records-Fall---1978-Ford-Fairmont/3474661.html there was a time they were building 'under-cubed' motors for the big show, time context there was 1978 ? here's a link i wish i had back then http://www.sunocoracefuels.com/fuel-finder
  14. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-Open-Carburetor-Spacer-4-Inch,2448.html http://www.dashman.net/product.html?id=199
  15. I'm still curious what the cranking cylinder PSI is ? boroscope in the spark plug hole would clear up a lot of questions, and you can 'map' the cam by only taking off a valve cover & maybe the crank pulley/balancer. basically the same set up as degreeing the cam