tinman

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tinman last won the day on June 20

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  1. whittling it down on the website i end with the same cam http://howardscams.com/i-24079600-howards-cams-cl231175-12-1970-1983-ford-351c-351m-400-hydraulic-roller-2800-to-6400-camshaft-lifter-kit.html what's the intended use?
  2. what type of lifter? mechanical lash will eat up a little lift ... what's too much? LOL
  3. a broken spring is a broken spring for sure, i'd never expect an inner to control the valve at rpm but a piston kissing a valve is nothing to a valve in the cylinder and 99% losing the block. always a possibility that a valve kiss ends in disaster too but not necessarily, Blizz bent all 8 Ti intakes / no explosion i forget the cause though but that's why some only advise forged pistons / never hyper too. durability i never considered the weight of the springs themselves as part of the equation? Yup the larger heavier retainer comes with the territory, not a lot you can do to avoid it besides going tool steel or Ti-tanium but if the recipe calls for drastic parts then that's what it needs to be. the inner spring physically stabilizes the outer by it's presence, and adds spring force. being that the inner is so different from the outer there's not much chance the harmonics will even be similar so there's at least 2 dimensions of added stability plus the dead spring safety factor. i figure if I'm not gonna get exotic with the valves & retainers, i better have some decent springs! this is what i have on my only set of heads ready to run ATM (factory cast iron 4V's) Crane 99886 triples http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRANE-CAMS-TRIPLE-VALVE-SPRINGS-99886-ROLLER-/201858354522 they're carried over from a previous build that was together for a long time, checked them out & they're all still right on spec i think because they were never stressed beyond their limit / always more than enough for the job. ready to go some more. the ad says roller but set up right they're good for a stout solid flat tappet like i said i think I'm the only one that doesn't go ga-ga for beehives, it's late & we're the only ones hitting the keys ... let's see if anyone hangin around can change my mind on that
  4. everybody loves them but me single spring no resonance opposition from a 2nd spring, no damper, no redundant safety that a 2nd spring or even a damper provides i contend that they were developed to reduce production cost by the major mfg'ers, they do reduce the weight of the retainer and they do have a certain amount of harmonic resistance built in by way of the varying coil diameter but they're just not suited to controlling the big 351C valves. i'll say they have their place as long as you don't expect too much from them, a mild moderate rpm build with small / light valves ... i still don't like giving up the safety margin of a dampened or dual spring, and if that's the build why not just go Windsor? i found them in my old 1999 Cavalier go figure not long after we gave it to the kid he thought he could make the left turn. not so much. the back wheel is as bent as the door, i shimmed the spindle & turned the wheel on the lugs 2 spaces & the darn thing spun as straight as the other 3. that WAS a good little shitbox
  5. those dents look like they're easy to get at with a right size pipe or something, heat the area with a propane or MAPP gas torch & beat a pipe in through the collector maybe round / bevel the end to reduce the possibility of making a bigger problem, Friedburger says it don't matter though
  6. assuming from this distance that you have the correct size tube for the hole in your block, it takes a hammer and plenty of good whacks to set it in. looking back at the http://www.tmeyerinc.com/category-s/2072.htm link i posted above, apparently there are 5/8" and 3/4" block holes and 5/8" is smaller than 3/4" so you'd know if your tube is too small ... are you sure there are no remains of the old tube in the block? it's common for the old tube to rust / break off & leave the pressed in section in the block, the trick is to drive a sharp pick or small screwdriver between the block and the old tube to cause the old tube to collapse inward and give up it's grip on the ID of the hole. then the hole needs to be cleaned with a brush, emery or sandcloth before the new tube gets installed
  7. 1st & 2nd big pic here shows the mount pad
  8. i tried cross posting another forum & the pics were a PITA too
  9. i went & stole the post from Pantera International
  10. on their MSD page https://www.msdperformance.com/brands/mallory/ they got Quickfuel too https://www.msdperformance.com/brands/mallory/#about About Us Founded in 1970, MSD is one of the most recognized industry names in ignition system products, EFI products and high performance parts. The company designs, develops, tests and assembles its entire line of ignition boxes, crank triggers, distributors, EFI systems, transmission controllers, spark plugs, coils, spark plug wires, and other performance parts from its headquarters in El Paso, TX. MSD Performance® is part of the Holley Performance Companies - Hooker Headers®, Flowtech® Exhaust, NOS® Nitrous, Weiand®, Earl's Performance Plumbing®, Diablosport® Superchips®, Edge Products®, Racepak®, Accel®, Mr.Gasket®, - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
  11. somebody should start popping them out
  12. I've used all sorts of methods to pound in the steel tube, a socket with an extension in backwards to give a good flat surface, a block of wood, any tool you might find that fits into the tube and gives a flat shoulder on the opening ... clean the inside of the hole as good as you can, carb cleaner & a plumbers copper fitting brush, battery terminal brush or just a brass / steel toothbrush kinda brush whatever you have or can get then blast it clean with carby or brakelean. let it dry a few and get the tube ready, i usually use a very little bit of silicone smeared down the hole on my pinky and wipe the rest on the tube. it'll act as lube going in then sealer when it dries
  13. for your purposes ATM plug #1 #2 is the heater return from the heater core to the water pump #3 was IIRC originally a thermo-vac switch to control distributor vacuum source, you can plug it also for now #4 Yes you're correct you need a press / pound in steel nipple http://www.tmeyerinc.com/category-s/2072.htm measure the hole in the block and the size of the heater nipple to determine which press in tube you need. if the heater nipples are different sizes match one of them to the steel nipple on the water pump first, that leaves the other one to match to a block tube. you may end up with 2 different size heater hoses or you might have the same size, no big deal just do what you gotta do but there should be no reason to need any hose adapter sleeve or any crap like that
  14. the Star equipment sure does look like top quality stuff, who'da thunk that the old smog air pumps held a power secret back then? and already factory mounted too just wondering what the ring pack is old motor vs new, if you didn't have the V-P installed all that time the ring pack couldn't've been optimized, did you go to a lower tension ring set this time?