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DILLIGASDAVE

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DILLIGASDAVE last won the day on January 14

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About DILLIGASDAVE

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    ClevoRacer

core_pfieldgroups_99

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    DFW Texas

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  1. IMO rocker stud girdles always have the advantage. That's because at that exact point when any single rocker stud by it's self is coming under a flexing/bending load, it is also being supported by all the other rocker studs it's tied/bridged to. Heh, too bad the same thing can't be said for the crap bolt-on main cap girdles since main caps don't "sway back & forth like a tree in the breeze" like rocker studs do under load.
  2. My fault, I typed stud girdle but meant the long/tall poly-locks for the stud girdles. I honestly don't know if the long/tall poly-locks are available with a 3/8 thread (never needed the 3/8 stuff so I never looked).
  3. Facebook page.

    Wellllll, I guess it all depends on a few things....... When someone brags about big numbers on "pump gas" my brain always asks is it 91, or 93 pump gas, ......or that much harder to find locally 99-100+ unleaded hot-rod specialty "pump gas" stuff that some few areas of the country are lucky enough have. I mean yea the 99-100+ stuff can technically be called "pump gas" cuz you get it from the pump at a gas station. But if getting it from the pump is all that's needed to qualify as "pump gas" then you also have to include avgas as a pump gas too. And of course I guess there might also be some out there that will use E85, but then omit that fact when they post HP/TQ numbers, and just call it "pump gas". On the flip side I guess a 12:1 engine on pump gas (93) with "big" numbers & no detonation problems becomes easier & easier to accept when you also factor in more & more of them helpful variables, (like aluminum heads, super tight quench distances, computer controlled fuel injection & ignition timing, etc, etc).
  4. At first my "drag racing only" brain response was going to be "if it needs a stud mounted full roller rocker, then it always needs a rocker stud girdle". But after thinking about it a little the actual need for a rocker stud girdle really does kinda depend on the engine's intended use. (A) High RPM use and/or high spring pressures?.....of course, slap that sucker on there. (B) Lower RPM use and/or lower spring pressures?.......not usually needed. But hey if someone still want's to use one it's fine, sometimes overkill is a fun thing. (C) Smaller OD rocker studs (like 3/8)?........meh using a bigger 7/16" stud is a better way to go. But if 3/8 is the only option, and if it might see some RPM's, then why not use a stud girdle just to be safe. On the other hand TBH I don't really know if a stud girdle for 3/8 rocker studs even exists, (because I never had to worry about 3/8 studs, my Cleveland stuff always had 7/16). The thing that always made me a fan of rocker stud girdles was the valve lash adjustment staying dead-nuts perfect every pass vs moving all around pass to pass without one.
  5. Heh, a loooooong time ago I used to have the magazine that these pics are from. I might be wrong but I always thought the P&S blocks were aluminum and was either the aluminum blocks Dyno Don used in his match race Clevelands, or that P&S had something to do with the Can-Am/Trans-Am Cleveland stuff (or maybe both). But again I might be wrong.
  6. Yea, leaving the unanswered question just hanging there of 3/8 rocker stud flex vs crap rocker causing the power drop was a stupid move IMO. All they had to do after the 3/8 stud/"roller tip only" rocker dyno pull was make the very next pull be one with a stud girdle installed just to see what happens before moving on to the dyno pulls with the full roller rockers.
  7. Meh, the very first time I switched from stock Cleveland rockers to roller rockers (Crane Gold) had nothing to do with hoping to gain more power. It had everything to do with stopping the excessive bronze valve guide wear I was seeing after switching from a rotating mulit-groove valve/retainer/lock assembly to a non-rotating single groove valve/retainer/lock setup. The stock setup's direct side-pull/friction at the stock rocker tip-to-valve tip contact point obviously increases a bunch if a multi-groove rotating valve/retainer/lock isn't in the system. But swap the stock rockers for the full roller rockers and the problem was instantly solved & the bronze guide wear completely disappeared.
  8. I have heard of setting the carb idle mixture screws on a mostly "street driven" car by using a combo of both idle speed & engine vacuum. But I never heard of setting ignition timing with just a vacuum gauge. Heh, on the other hand my mind gets all wonky when dealing with the modern OEM fuel injection vs carb stuff. Supposedly on my Dodge Ram you can physically rotate the dizzy trying to change ignition timing, but the computer will always counter by electronically adjusting back to the preset ignition settings. But then for some reason Dodge in it's infinite wisdom decided to make the fuel injector timing a mechanical deal inside the dizzy instead of the computer. So....crank on the dizzy all you want and no effect in the ignition timing, but doing so will futtz up the injector timing like a Mo-Fo.
  9. https://www.facebook.com/NHRA/videos/10156028192206410/ Quote WJ......"The Camaro looks like the south end of a horse going north."
  10. The 2018 Pro Stock rule change allowing mixing of different bodies & engines from different brands is just f-ing stupid. If they are sill intending to call it "Pro Stock" it makes no sense. Maybe they should just start calling them Naturally Aspirated Junior Pro Mods instead. First they say they want the hood scoops gone & the bodies less "swoopy" & more factory looking to get back to the original intent of Pro Stock.....Then they flip-flop and now say "any engine in any body"? WTF??? The NHRA are idiots IMO with no idea what they are doing. They might as well just kill the P/S class now and be done with it instead of a slow death.
  11. Trickflow powerport 190

    The FMX's internal components are generally a little smaller/lighter than the C-6, and little bigger/heavier than the C-4. The FMX is also somewhat rollerized as it has a few (??? 1, 2, 1000,.....I forget how many) Torrington needle bearings from the factory in place of normal thrust washers. The FMX also has a different 1st gear ratio than the C-4 or C-6. IIRC no one ever made an aftermarket manual/reverse valve body for the FMX. But an alternative was the old ancient B&M TransPack kit for the FMX, it worked far better than any other companys "shift kit" on the market. With the B&M kit's "drag" setting you could make the FMX shift real hard. But on one FMX I took it one step further than what the B&M instructions said for the "drag" setting and drilled a hole or two even bigger. That FMX shifted so hard that on teardown the clutches still looked brand new. IMO the biggest drawbacks of the FMX are (A) the center case is cast iron and a bit heavy, (B) the input shaft OD is kinda small (nothing like the C-6's) and kinda scary if you got big power or use a power adder, and (C) there is almost no real aftermarket support for the FMX these days.
  12. Man am i glad your back!!

    Glad you're back.... Question about the Cleveland facebook page..... While this site was down I would look in on the facebook page every so often. But recently I can't see the facebook page anymore, it says I have to sign in to see the page (I didn't need a FB account to see it before). Was this changed to help protect the FB page from the same hackers that hit here?
  13. Comp Eliminator with a 351C

    You can make most modern throttle stop systems "catch & release" at any point during the pass (launch, or finish line, or mid track, and even multiple times during the pass IIRC).
  14. New member / New build

    IMO the combo kinda sounds like a mixed combo parts deal. Is it's intended purpose a pump gas street/highway build, or a street/strip build? The dual-plane intake & small carb suggest a street combo, but the cam (while not a monster) is kinda big and suggests otherwise. And the loose converters & kinda steep rear gears suggest a street/strip combo that would be a pain to drive on the highway (without an OD trans). Also curious about the pistons, why start with domed pistons and then shave the dome off vs starting with a flattop (or dish)? And even without the dome the proposed static 10.97 to 1 compression is kinda "up there" for today's crap pump gas. Having aluminum heads & almost zero deck/tight quench clearances helps some. You might want to look into singh grooves, some say they help, some say they don't. The standard volume oil pump + shim will probably be fine if it's not a high RPM deal using loose bearing clearances. The Duraspark dizzy will probably be fine if it's not a high RPM combo. The C-6 will rob a bunch of power (if it's not a rollerized deal). A C-4 or even a FMX might be a better idea.
  15. Comp Eliminator with a 351C

    Meh, depending on the class you choose trying to run Comp Eliminator can become a bottomless money pit. A lot of what the early small block era Pro Stock engine's future development might have been (without the 1982 500" big block rule change) ended up going to Comp Eliminator.
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