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BlizzND

RobbMc Starter

2 posts in this topic

RobbMc Starter Group Purchase December 6 2006 at 11:54 AM RobbMc  (Login RobbMc)
Member
from IP address 24.176.185.28

All forum members who purchase a RobbMc starter for a Ford between now and midnite December 31th 2006 will receive a rebate check in the mail during the month of January 2007.

General starter info:
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/starter_home.html

Cleveland with auto trans or T5:
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/fordat_starter.html

Cleveland with 3 or 4 speed manual trans:
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/fordmt_starter.html

351M or 400:
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/fordbb_starter.html


The amount of the rebate depends on the total number of starters purchased by forum members between now and January 1st. The more starters purchased, the larger the rebate checks:
 
rickwestaus
(Login rickwestaus)
Member
220.235.131.116 re cost December 19 2006, 4:01 AM 
the starter was $354au to my door that includes the banks bit to change currency(about $9au) but ill say again what a starter. i think the same tilton (which cant rotate like the robbmc)is 450+.

    Respond to this message    Gary Orris
(Login GaryOrris)
69.232.21.130 One more question on the "T5" starter. December 20 2006, 9:34 PM 
A T5 and a Tremec should work with the same starter. But why are your T5 starters grouped with the automatics? The hot tip on getting an inexpensive starter with more torque is to take it off a '90s F150 or something. But I understand you can't do that with a stick. I was under the impression that the flywheel is different, at least for the number of teeth. 157 for the automatic? 163 for the manual? Am I close? And I wouldn't want to take the chance on just changing the pinion gear to a "manual" flywheel as there might be clearance issues too. 

Wish someone could clear this up.
 
 
 
RobbMc
(Login RobbMc)
Member
24.176.185.28 Ford Starters December 21 2006, 7:10 PM 
Ford starters are a little complicated. I started working for Tilton in the 1980's and have been designing starters ever since and I still get a little confused at times.

Since the 1960's, most Ford V8 engines (except maybe the new modular motors) use one of three basic starter mounting designs . 

The all use the same 9 tooth, 1" diameter gear. 

Some use three mounting bolts (such as FE) and some use only two, but fortunately 2 of 3 mounting holes are in the same place so they can be interchanged.

There are three different ring gear offsets (the distance the ring gear is from the starter mounting surface). 

SB's and Clevelands with automatics use an offset of 3/4". All FE engines (as well as 5.0L with T5 trans) also use a 3/4" offset. The starter register diameter (ie. the diameter of the hole in the starter mounting plate) is 4.09".

SB's and Clevelands with a 3 or 4 speed manual trans use a 3/8" offset. The starter register diameter is 4.14".

351M/400/429/460 engines use a 5/8" offset. The register diameter is 4.09". The starters for this application are easy to spot as one mounting hole is tapped.

Yes, there are several different ring gears with different tooth counts but this is taken care of by the starter mounting plates. The starter mounting plates for the larger ring gears have the register diameter further from the center of the engine. 

I am sure there are exceptions to all the above, but these are the general rules for Ford starters.

If you measure the distance from the mounting surface to the ring gear and measure the starter hole in the mounting plate, you can usually determine which starter you need.
 
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blizzard
(Premier Login blizzardND)
Forum Owner
64.21.242.179 That is a very fine write up on Ford Starters!! Thank You. December 22 2006, 8:09 AM 
That part about the register size is important, I learned the hard way when after having 2 engines out and apart at the same time, I mistakenly put the automatic trans block plate on my manual transmission bronco. after 2 days of wedging that motor in and hooking everything up but the starter, I found out my mistake. I spent a half an hour with a file (thank henry ford that starters are aluminum)to make that starter register the same size as the plate hole. 

I would suppose Ford did that so you cannot mix up a manual starter (longer snout) with a auto starter on the assembly line. 

blizz

    Respond to this message    Bruce Turner
(Login gwarn)
Member
61.68.205.8 That's Not Bad December 22 2006, 6:48 AM 
Rick, I just got one from Castle Auto Electrix in Castlemaine Vic. Bought it back with me to Perth. It may be similar to what you've got. The thing is a 3:1 gear drive, mostly aluminium, weighs less than half the old rat trap, spins the motor over HEAPS faster & draws less current whilst making 1.9 horsepower!! Total cost was AU$360 including 2 spacer shims for standing unit a tad further away from ring gear. It is also rotatable 360 degrees to clear exhausts etc. I am over moon with this thing compared to old unit!
 

    Respond to this message    scottmc
(Login scottmcdonald)
Member
203.166.232.10 thats not too bad December 28 2006, 5:34 AM 
also in Western Australia, thats comparible to what i paid for my high torque starter,especially with the fast postage.the CVR one , and this one looks smaller from the pics. 

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$40 mini starter & re-wire linkFebruary 2 2008 at 9:55 AM tinman  (Login tinman351)
Moderators
 
 
Response to starter info from RobbMc
 
(don't forget to ask for the wiring kit when ordering, it's supposed to be free but you have to ask for it) 
 
 
 

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